I know what you’re thinking, “I just bought my HDTV, what’s all this 3D business?” 3D is expected to be the next monumental breakthrough in the history of television. In this Tech Tip, I’ll cover the basics of 3D TV, including some of the different technologies and how they work.

How it works: three dimensional television (3D TV) uses a method known as stereoscopy to display two different images to your eyes so that they appear as one image. As your brain interprets what your eyes are seeing, it combines the two images while your eyes are still focusing on the source of the images behind them. This creates an illusion of depth to the viewer. The phrase, “There’s no such thing as a free lunch” holds true for fooling your brain, too. Long viewing sessions of stereoscopic images or video strains your eyes and can result in headaches. Worse yet, a small minority of people can’t see stereoscopic images or video at all due to any number of medical conditions that prevent their brains from being fooled.

Most of us are probably familiar with our first type of stereoscopy, the anaglyph lenses. Anaglyph lenses use contrasting colors (usually red and blue) to achieve the effect of stereoscopy by blocking the images colored to match the lenses so that each eye can only see one of set of images. With red and blue anaglyph glasses, your left eye sees only the blue light that doesn’t reflect off the red lens in front of you, and your right eye only sees the red light coming through the blue lens. The obvious drawback to the viewing experience provided by anaglyph lenses is that the image is tinted with both colors of the anaglyph lenses.

The second type of lenses used are much more modern and have even enjoyed moderate success in movie theaters: polarized lenses. Polarized lenses achieve the same effect as anaglyph glasses by restricting the images each eye gets to see using polarized filters. Half the images are allowed to get to one eye, half to the other, and they meet in 3D glory somewhere in the middle.

Our next type of 3D TV is the active method, as opposed to the passive method employed by anaglyph polarized lenses. Active lenses are more expensive than their passive cousins and get their name from the fact that they actively shut on and off at extremely high rates of speed to create the stereoscopic depth effect. However, they cannot work on their own and require a display capable of syncing with the glasses, and since they’re sitting on your face, they have to be wireless, which is accomplished via infrared technology. With active glasses synced to a 3D-ready television, your eyes are shown only the images they are supposed to see, using a method known as alternate-frame sequencing, to achieve a stereoscopic effect.

Only recently have LCD TVs and plasma displays been capable of flickering enough images at you per second to make this work. To be a 3D-ready TV, a display must be capable of display at least 120 frames per second (120 Hz) and needs a set-top-box that syncs with the glasses. The first requirement is satisfied rather easily these days, you can find 240 Hz displays in the wild already. The second requirement is what’s held 3D TV back so far; not many people are running out to purchase a set-top-box and a bunch of pairs of special glasses. Add the fact that there hasn’t been an industry standard, so manufacturers have their own stereoscopy methods that often are incompatible with each other.

The last kind of stereoscopy, and really, it’s the best kind, is known as autostereoscopy or Auto 3D. There are two major methods of accomplishing stereoscopy without glasses. The first is the parallax barrier. The parallax barrier is basically a filter that lays over the screen that tricks your eyes into focusing in front of the actual screen to create the same illusion of depth. You can see parallax barriers at work in Nintendo’s latest portable console, the 3DS.

The other autostereoscopic technology is the lenticular lens method that works by laying tiny magnifying lenses over a particular set of images. Lenticular printing has been around for quite awhile and is the method using to make printed images appear to change as you turn them back and forth.

Unfortunately, technological limitations prevent both of these methods from being implemented in large screens at this time.

A number of things need to go right for 3D TV to take off, but chief among them is the fact that the glasses have to go. Nobody wants to buy a set of glasses just in case their friends come over. The next obstacle is standardization: just like we saw consumers holding off on HD-DVD vs. Blu-ray until there was only one, they will do the same for 3D TV. It’s also worth noting that more 3D content has to be created for people to watch it, so the chicken and egg causality dilemma stands in the way. Content producers won’t be rushing to create 3D content if there’s only a small install base of 3D-capable living rooms. One thing is for sure, television manufacturers are very inclined to get you to buy a new TV and they are focused on enticing you by wowing your pants off with fantastic 3D technology. I’m prepared to allow them, but without glasses!

For the Geek on the go, there are essentials that you need! Last year Tech Tips covered some of these essentials with “Must-Have Tech Gear To Maximize Productivity Outside The Office”. In this week’s Tech Tip, we are going to cover some of the essentials to carry in your laptop bag as well as offering some guidance for picking the right laptop bag for your life on the go.

The most basic essential

Choosing just the right laptop carrying case could be called getting the most basic essential accessory for your laptop. While there is a wide array to choose from, you can narrow down your search by thinking about how you’ll use your bag. If you a student, then perhaps a laptop backpack would be your style. Is it essential to protect your laptop from unforeseen accidents, then maybe an aluminum notebook case would be your style. Do you just need your laptop lightly protected but easy to carry? Then look at one of the sleeve options. There is also the basic laptop bag – inexpensive, easy to carry and stow away, but that gives your laptop good protection. These come in a variety of materials, from simple nylon to nicely appointed leather. For the traveling set, there are upgraded luggage type bags – complete with wheels and travel handle as well as TSA approved bags for the jet setting Geek.

Whatever bag you get, be sure that it fits your needs. Is it large enough for your laptop (or perhaps too big?). Will it fit all the extra goodies that you want to bring along? If you have an eBook reader or tablet, does it have a special compartment that can easily accommodate and protect this device as well? Does it include accessories such as a shoulder strap, or it is lockable? All these need to be considered for getting “just the right bag.”

Some more obvious essentials

Some of the more obvious essentials to have include three mentioned in the Must-Have Tech Tip as well as a few others:

1. Mouse with nano receiver.
2. USB flash drive.
3. Power strip.

In addition to those essentials, some others would be:

1. Presentation pointer (some mice, such as HP Bluetooth credit card mouse, have a built in presenter).
2. Mini Bluetooth module (if your laptop doesn’t already have Bluetooth).
3. 3G or 4G modem (if your laptop doesn’t have built in 3G) or in lieu of that:
4. A cell phone device that acts as a Wi-Fi hotspot (such as Verizon’s MiFi service). This is a great service to have on long road trips where there may be multiple devices that can connect to the Internet.
5. Noise canceling headphones – be sure that you get one that easily folds down for traveling.

Some less obvious essentials Less obvious essentials to have in your laptop bag are:

1. Identification (like a business card) in case your bag is lost.
2. Some kind of tracking software on your laptop (much like BlackBerry’s Protect or Apple’s Location services for iPhone/iPad). There are software options that can be used to help locate a misplaced or stolen laptop (such as Lojack for Laptops).
3. Spare battery (but not if you are planning to fly).
4. Automobile cigarette lighter DC power cable for laptops or automobile power inverter (also great for long trips).
5. Laptop travel mat – some kind of surface that allows the laptop to stay put but keep the fans clear and the heat away from you.
6. Essential cables. Think how you are going to use your laptop – are you going to need a cable to connect to a projector or HDTV. Will you need a cable to connect your camcorder or cell phone? Will you be staying at a hotel that only offers wired Internet, and need an Ethernet cable? All things to think about when looking for items to include in your case.
7. Cleaning cloth for the screen (even if it is not a touchscreen). Be sure that you get one that is safe for LCD screens.

In conclusion

There are a myriad of essentials and must-haves that you can get for your laptop bag. With this Tech Tip we have looked at the bag itself, some of the must-have essentials to the not so obvious essentials. We encourage you to plan ahead when traveling with it and we hope that this Tech Tip helps gives you some good ideas on what essentials you’d most like to have in your laptop bag

If you’re a desktop PC gamer, enthusiast or just want to keep your rig from turning into a George Foreman Grill when it’s running the most demanding games (insert Crysis joke here), video editing, rendering pictures on Photoshop or just heavy multi-tasking, the manner in which your computer stays cool is very crucial in the long-term. Just like how synthetic motor oil does a better job of protecting vital engine parts in the long-run, having a good cooling system can preserve your computer’s motherboard and processor and reduce premature wear and tear. This Tech Tip will examine available cooling solutions and help you make an informed decision.

Air Cooling

The Good – Simplicity, relatively cheap, easy to install and has good cooling ability for overclocked CPUs (with the right heatsink/fan and configuration) for the price.

The Bad – Simplicity and outdated design, fan can die out, can have reduced cooling if case has poor ventilation.

The Ugly – Comes in all shapes and sizes so it can be confusing picking the right one.

What to look for – If you’re looking to save some cash but want a solid cooling solution, you can’t go wrong with a traditional fan/heatsink setup.

First, you have to examine your computer case and determine if there is enough space to fit a moderate or large-size cooler.

Second, you’ll want to check what fan(s) are around the CPU since these case fans help with pushing hot air out through the back. (or up the top and/or side) The popular trend nowadays is a cooling fan that’s placed perpendicular on top of the CPU and is connected with several copper heatpipes. The main issue with this is the installation can be intimidating for newbies if the cooler arrives fully disassembled. In addition, depending on what you’re hoping to achieve, you’ll want to check a prospective CPU cooler’s specifications.

• For example, my personal preference is a near-silent cooling with long life. One of my favorites, the Thermaltake TR2-R1 spins at a whisper quiet 17-18 decibels and has a 50,000 hour Mean Time Between Failure (MTBF) rating. If you’re all about efficient air movement, you’ll want to check out a CPU Cooler’s airflow rating. The Thermaltake TR2-R1 has a max airflow of 35.43 CFM which is generous for a cooling fan but its huge size makes it impractical for a very small computer case. Also, a cooling fan that supports several processors can be good if you’re upgrading CPUs. Salvaging your current CPU fan can be one less incurred expense when upgrading.

Lastly, if possible, try to find a CPU cooler that has a copper base (or completely copper heatsink) which is better at dissipating heat than aluminum.

Water-Cooling

The Good – Virtually silent operation, has way better cooling capability than a traditional CPU fan/heatsink

The Bad – Expensive, could be difficult to install and configure for beginners, could fail and damage computer parts

The Ugly – Maintenance-heavy, bulky cooling hoses and apparatus, might need a new case

What to look for – Water-cooling solutions have become a popular alternative to PC gamers and enthusiasts as it absolutely does a better job cooling an overclocked high-performance processor. In addition, its design makes it near-silent as the only sound would be emanating from the radiator’s fan(s) which is minimal. (some are fanless!) However, you have to be careful and consider the costs involved. A water-cooling solution has a higher cost premium and involves the purchase of a radiator, pump, coolant, solution and heavy-duty tubing. (some have all parts in a kit)

If the water-cooling system malfunctions, either by manufacturer defect or after years of use and wear and tear, coolant can leak onto other vital computer components which could cause additional damage. Furthermore, you might have to mod your case to make room for the bulky tubing that extends out to the radiator and pump. This might involve having to buy a whole new water-cooling computer case all together.

Bottom Line

Ultimately, you have to consider what specific characteristics of a CPU cooler you’re looking for such as airflow, fan endurance and if you plan to overclock or not. For hardcore gamers and video editors looking to get the maximum cooling power from their hard-working CPUs and are okay with the maintenance, water-cooling is probably the more efficient cooling solution.

For beginners and moderate users, air-cooled fan designs have evolved to have a more efficient (and comprehensively bulky) direction such as the Cooler Master Hyper RR-920-N520-GP C which means you can leverage a little more power from your CPU (via overclocking) without having to invest the time, energy and money on a more expensive water-cooling alternative.

The more you use your desktop computer, the more stuff you’re going to be saving to the computers hard drive. Your photos, music, software, and all of your other critical data are stuck on that thing and unless you’re being extra careful, chances are you’re going to fill it to capacity. When this happens, instead of going on a deletion spree, why not just install another drive? If you’re installing a brand new one, this guide will be for you, but if you’re replacing a drive, you should find this helpful as well. In either case, installing a hard drive is very easy and an important skill to have in your arsenal. I’ll explain how to install a new hard drive to a desktop system and prepare it for a fresh operating system installation. If you’re a notebook computer or cheaper netbook user, the same principles will apply, but the connections and the sizes will differ. For the purpose of this guide, I’ll be referencing disk-based hard drives instead of solid-state drives, but the same principles apply for those as well.

What You’ll Need:

A hard drive (IDE or Serial ATA) A screwdriver (usually a Phillips head) Four screws (usually included with the drive if purchased new) An available data connection (the cable, plugged into an available port on the motherboard) An available power connector (4-pin large “Molex” for IDE or 15-pin flat “wafer” for Serial ATA) An available drive bay (usually labeled in your case) Operating System Low-static environment or a place to ground yourself

Steps:

1. Screw in the drive
2. Connect the data cable
3. Connect the power cable
4. Partition and format

Note for IDE hard drives

Since the cables they use can accommodate two drives per channel, the drive is equipped with jumpers that set its priority on the cable. The settings are Master, Slave, and Cable Select. When using two drives, Cable Select will allow the motherboard to select which drive gets priority on the cable. Otherwise, the Master drive gets the priority and the Slave must wait for the Master’s operations to complete before its own are allowed to go. Since Serial ATA drives are only one drive per channel, they do not require jumper settings. When using a dual head IDE cable and two drives, connect the Master to the middle connection and the Slave to the end. When using optical drives on the same channel as your hard drive, which I do not recommend for performance reasons, set the optical drive to the Slave and your hard drive to the Master setting. Most devices are labeled with the settings for each mode, but in any case, you can check your devices manufacturer’s website for the correct jumper settings.

Screw in the drive

Before you start touching stuff, make sure you’ve grounded yourself to prevent any electrostatic discharge. When you’ve chosen the drive bay you’re installing to, hold the drive in place with the label facing up and partially screw in two of the screws to the side facing you, but only enough to hold the drive steady. From here, check the power and data cables to make sure you have the length. Too many times I’ve screwed the whole thing in to find my one of my cables doesn't reach, enough times that I would be remiss to not pass it along to you. Once you’re confident your power and data cables will reach, you can begin screwing in the drive. Tighten each screw until it’s about three quarters of the way in, then tighten the opposite corners completely. This will help mount the drive securely in the bay and help prevent vibration during use.

Connect the data cable

For Serial ATA hard drives, the connection is very straight-forward. The L-shape design prevents you from inserting it incorrectly. For IDE connections, the red line on the cable goes to the right. Usually the cables are keyed to prevent improper insertion, but I’ve noticed through the years that this is not always the case, so just remember this rule of thumb: red to the right.

Connect the power cable

Your drive isn’t going to be sending or receiving any data without getting any power. Serial ATA power cables are also L-shaped to prevent improper insertion, but much wider than their data-carrying counterparts. IDE drives use the large 4-pin Molex connectors; you probably have at least three or four of these hanging about in your case. The top corners of these connectors are slanted and the bottom corners form right angles to prevent improper insertion as well.

Partition and format

Before you can use the drive, you need to create partitions and format them so they can be read and written to. There are a variety of ways to accomplish this, the easiest being just inserting your operating system into your optical drive, booting up your system, and starting the setup process. From here, the software should take you through the rest of the setup and prepare the drive for use. If for some reason it doesn’t, have your “pocket tech support” ready. From there, you’ll be able to prepare the drive for nearly any operating system.

Final Notes

Creating or deleting partitions as well as formatting a drive will delete all files stored on the drive. If you’re not using a brand new drive and you’re concerned about any data on the drive, you’ll need to copy that data to another place first. I personally recommend replacing hard drives every three years or so. A drive’s lifespan should be longer than that on average, but losing important data is a truly heartbreaking experience and erring on the side of caution is my suggestion.

The last time Tech Tips looked at eBook Readers in 2008, it was more for the purpose of checking out just what eBook readers were – a sort of primer. Now in 2011, eBooks and eBooks readers have gotten a tremendous boost thanks to the likes of Amazon’s Kindle and Apple’s iPad. It certainly looks like not only are eBooks here to stay, but they now have a tremendous following and look to be the wave of the future. In this Tech Tip we’ll look at some practical aspects of choosing a reader that fits your needs.

Dedicated Reader or App (or both)?

While having a dedicated eBook reader is cool – what could be cooler than adding an e-book reader app to your Smart Phone or Tablet? All the major players in the eBook market have apps available for free download for multiple platforms. This means that you can start getting into the eBook game right this second on your device of choice!

An example of an eReader app is the one made by Amazon – the free Kindle Reading App – available for your iPhone, Windows PC, Mac, BlackBerry, iPad, Android, and Windows 7 Phone. You can not only download the app without owning an actual Kindle eBook reader, but you can download and install to each device. Not only that, but the Kindle app will sync what you are reading across all platforms that you’ve installed it on (for example – you can start reading an eBook on your iPad, resume it on your iPhone, resume it again on your MAC and then finish it off on your Kindle eBook reader).

Trying the app out first is also a cool way to see if eBooks are for you before you splurge for a dedicated reader. And who knows, particularly if you have a tablet, the app on your device may be just be all you need as an eReader. Some eBook manufacturers have taken notice as some readers like the new Nook Color from Barnes & Noble and the Pandigital Novel are actually tablets that have the Barnes & Noble eBook app installed (note that Pandigital recently unlocked the Novel so that it is now a full fledged tablet as well as an eBook reader).

E Ink™ or LCD?

If you do decide on an dedicated eBook reader, one of the first things you are confronted with is whether to get an LCD or an E Ink based reader. Not only do LCD readers typically have a backlight that helps viewing in dim situations, but they also are usually color and oftentimes are touchscreens as well. Some of the drawbacks are they tend to have a much poorer battery life than their E Ink counterparts, tend to weigh more and have problems being read in bright sunlight.

E Ink readers are typically much lighter than LCD readers; can be easily viewed outdoors and have a phenomenal battery life. Some of the drawbacks of E Ink are poor contrast (especially on first generation E Ink); it displays in gray scale (most noticeable, again, on the first generation) and its lack of a backlight. The second generation E Ink (dubbed E Ink Pearl) offered better contrast while the newly introduced color E Ink Triton shows some of the progress and promises that E Ink technology offers for the near future.

Looking To Buy an eBook Reader? – Here are Some Features to Look Out For:

1) How does the reader connect to the “book store”? Do you need to plug it into a PC? Does it have built in Wi-Fi or even 3G?

2) What kind of “book store” is available for the reader? How easy is it to use? How many and what kinds of titles are available? Are subscriptions to magazines and newspapers available?

3) Can you easily read other formats not in the “official” eBook reader format? For example, will it read common document formats such as PDF, DOC, TXT or even HTML formats? Can it handle the DRM (Digital Rights Management) formats well? Is there an easy way to convert to the format if it can’t handle the file type? For example, an eReader won’t help you if you plan to use it for DRM protected PDF version of a textbook if it can’t “read” that format and there is no way to convert it over to a format that it “can read”.

4) Does it do “extra” things such as play music? View videos? View photos?

5) How much storage is on it? Is the storage expandable? How fast does it work? Is it easy to use? How durable is it? What do other people think of the device (professional reviews as well customer feedback reviews are often helpful).

6) Is it widely enough adopted so that I can be assured that it won’t become obsolete in the near future? Can I get accessories for it?

In conclusion

As eBook readers continue to progress and become more widely used, it is very evident that this is the trend of the future. With the prices dropping and cheap eBook readers becoming available as well as the thousands of eBook titles available – it seems that if you haven’t already jumped on board – now is the time if you are looking to buy an eBook reader to pick one up (or download the reader app) and get caught with the wave of the eBook Reader future!