Posted by Ed Bott

Fellow ZDNet blogger Jason Perlow helped a friend and colleague buy a new PC and migrate her data and settings from the old machine (Windows XP) to the new one (Windows Vista). He documents the process in The New Adventures of Christine’s Old PC.

I tip my hat to Jason for his dedication to a friend, but as someone who has been doing this for years, I shook my head at the way he turned what should be a straightforward procedure into a weekend-long geekfest, complete with the transformation of the old, slow, obsolete, spyware-ridden computer into a virtual machine on the new one. In my opinion, that’s overkill for everyone involved. (Update: Jason defends his approach in this follow-up post.)

Over the years, I’ve done this process dozens of times for business clients, family members, friends, and neighbors. I’ve got the process down to a series of checklists, all built around some core principles. First, this is a great opportunity to get rid of clutter and get a fresh start. Second, the best way to transfer data from the old machine to the new one is by physically attaching the old hard drive to the new PC. Anything else, as Jason discovered, is likely to bog down. And finally, spending time upfront figuring out what needs to be transferred and what doesn’t can save hours of time and headaches later.

Jason brought along a huge USB hard drive and a thumb drive. I agree that a USB flash drive can be useful for some small tasks, but I prefer to skip those intermediate transfers whenever possible. Trying to do large-scale data transfers with USB flash drives and cables can be problematic, especially on old, slow, problem-plagued machines, as Jason discovered. Why spend hours moving tens or hundreds of gigabytes of data from the old machine to a USB drive only to have to do it again with the new PC? Skip the two-step and do what I do: bring along a SATA/IDE-to-USB converter. Newegg sells Syba’s version of this device for around $20 including shipping. I own a couple and can recommend them without hesitation. An external power supply feeds the DC connector on the drive, and a two-headed adapter lets you connect any SATA or IDE drive directly to a USB port on the new PC. While the contents of the old computer are transferring to a folder on the new PC, you can tackle other tasks.

But before you do any of that, sit down in front of the old PC and talk to the client about what they want to accomplish with the new system. The steps in this phase are designed to make sure you don’t get stumped somewhere along the way with a detail you overlooked.

I start by sitting down in front of the old PC with the client. And yes, I make them do this with me, because it’s a great way for me to learn what they think is important and for them to learn that the inner workings of their computer are not a mystery. Here’s what we do:

• Open the Programs window from Control Panel and take inventory of all installed software on the old PC. Decide which programs you want to install on the new machine and which ones will be replaced or completely scrapped. Make sure you verify that the old programs are compatible with the new hardware and OS and that there are no known installation or upgrade issues.
• Create a new folder on the client’s desktop and call it NEW PC. You’ll use this folder to store drivers, program updates, and exported settings that can’t be easily copied as files from the old PC.
• For programs that will make the leap from old PC to new, gather installation media. If installation of any program requires serial numbers or other information to complete installation or activation, write that information down in a text file and save it in the NEW PC folder. If any programs you plan to install require updates or patches, download them and save them in a subfolder of the NEW PC folder.
• Write down login information for e-mail accounts and other online services. Save this information in a text file in the NEW PC folder.
• If you need to use custom settings to connect to the Internet or to a local area network, write down those settings and save them in the NEW PC folder. This is most common for notebooks, where setting up a wireless connection requires that you enter a network encryption key.
• Take inventory of external hardware (scanners, printers, MP3 players, and so on). Verify that any device you plan to connect to the new computer is compatible with the new hardware and operating system. If necessary, download the latest driver and any required support files and save them in the NEW PC folder.
• Find all digital media (photos, music, home movies, etc.) that the client considers valuable and make a note of their location. Consolidate them in a single folder with subfolders, if possible.
• Identify all digital music that the client has downloaded or purchased. If any of them are from the iTunes Music Store or another source that uses DRM, make sure that you know how to transfer licenses to the new PC. (For iTunes users, now is a good time to deauthorize the old computer.)
• Open the client’s e-mail program and export the address book to a file buy cialis no prescription that can be imported on the new PC. Save this in the NEW PC folder.
• While that e-mail program is open, make a note of where e-mail messages are stored and in what format. If necessary, export the messages to a file and save that file in the NEW PC folder. (For Jason’s friend, this step wasn’t necessary, because the data was in an Outlook PST file. If she had used Outlook Express, I would recommend the procedure in this Knowledge Base article.)
• Open the client’s preferred web browser and export all bookmarks to a file that can be imported on the new PC. Save this file in the NEW PC folder.
• Burn the contents of the NEW PC folder to a CD or copy them to a USB flash drive. For this job, I actually prefer a CD, which can then be stuck in an envelope along with program disks and manuals in case the client needs it again later.

There. Now you can shut down the old PC, use the SATA/IDE adapter to connect its hard drive to the new PC as a USB drive, and begin selectively restoring your backed-up data and settings, taking advantage of this opportunity to clean things up thoroughly. Here’s the order in which I do things:

• First, I remove all crapware and trial programs from the new PC. If the system came with an antivirus program and the client plans to use a different security solution, get rid of the old one first, before going even a single step further.
• Set up the Internet/network connection and download all available Windows updates.
• Set up the client’s e-mail on the new machine and verify that you can send and receive mail. I prefer to start with a completely clean inbox and leave the old mail in a separate PST (for Outlook users) or in an Old Mail folder for any other program.
• Restore the e-mail address book from the old machine.
• Reinstall the programs that you decided were worth keeping from the old machine. Be sure to install any updates or patches for each one, and then open the program and verify that you can create and save data files.
• Set up your external hardware, using the drivers and support software you downloaded previously.

This is usually the point where I stop and do an image backup using Complete PC Backup from Vista Business or Ultimate. If this option isn’t available, I like Acronis True Image, which is available in a 15-day trial version. If the PC in question has a Seagate or Maxtor drive, you can download the free OEM version of Acronis’ software (Seagate DiscWizard or Maxtor MaxBlast 5, respectively).

Finally, I’m ready to begin moving data from the old system to the new one. You can use any of the third-party programs I listed in the previous paragraph to repartition the main drive on the new PC and then clone the old drive to the new partition. (This works best if the old PC has a relatively small hard drive and the new one has a much larger drive, which is likely to be the case with most consumers upgrading a four- or five-year-old PC.) I prefer to clone a drive rather than simply copy files, because it guarantees that every file from the old PC will be available on the new one, even obscure settings and data files buried in hidden subfolders.

Because the new PC has up-to-date antivirus software, you can scan the old drive for viruses before or after transferring data files. Then it’s a matter of identifying the user’s documents, digital pictures, and music, and putting everything in the right place.

And we’re done. Disconnect the old drive and put it back in the old PC. I usually leave the old system around for a week or two until the client is confident that the new system is working properly. Once it has passed muster, I return and wipe the old system clean, restoring the original operating system and getting it ready to pass along to someone who can use it.

That’s how I do it. This rarely takes more than a few hours, and when I’m done the client has usually learned some important skills along the way, making it more likely that they’ll be able to steer clear of trouble in the future.

So, what tricks do you use to make this chore faster and easier?

It seems like everyday, I get at least one e-mail with a question about routers. The questions range from “Which router is the most secure?” to “What does wireless B, G, N mean?” and so on.

Well, it's pretty obvious to me that a lot of you out there would like some clarification on routers. I will do my best to answer as many questions as I can here today. Here we go!

What do the letters mean? About half of the e-mails I receive ask about the letters on the end of the wireless router. Most routers you find today are listed as Wireless B, Wireless G or Wireless N. Those letters indicate the protocol the wireless router uses to communicate with the wireless computer's network card. The letters also represent the speed and range of the wireless router.

Wireless G routers are the most common as of now. They are what most people get and they are the most reasonably priced. They usually have a good enough range to work inside your home or out on your patio. They support speed much faster than what your ISP can supply as well. Even more, you will never experience any slow downs when using a wireless G router.

Wireless N routers are the new, long distance routers. They will connect more reliably over a larger range and work better in homes with thicker walls and through basement floors. They have three antennas and also cost quite a bit more. If you feel like you will have signal issues in your home, wireless N is the way to go. But, there's also a catch.

When it comes to wireless G and N, they work the best when connecting to a computer that has a network card of the same type. Most computers that come with wireless cards have a built in wireless G card. That means if you buy a wireless N router, you will not see the same dramatic increase in range. When looking for a router, it's important to know what kind of wireless card you have. If you're setting up a new network, you should buy matching network cards and routers. If you're buying a new computer with a wireless network card, you should ask the sales person about the protocol for what the computer's card will support.

propecia tolerance

Which is more secure? Well, there are many varieties of wireless routers on the market today. I have written before about how to make your wireless connection secure, but does it matter which type of router you buy? Yes and no. In most cases, the brand of wireless router will not change the security abilities of the router. Most companies make routers with varying security standards. Some are easier to configure and some are more advanced.

No matter which brand you choose, you should look for a few things in a router when it comes to security. First, check the box to see that it is a router and firewall combination. That means it will provide security by blocking ports that are not being used. That provides a great deal of security. Secondly, make sure the router has the proper wireless security features. The router should support wireless encryption, including WPA and WEP. It should also support MAC filtering and it should have the ability to turn off the SSID broadcast. Those features may not be listed on the box, so you might need to do a little research before you buy. There you go!

Until next time, stay safe out there, my friends!

Q:
I've been looking into buying a new printer. What are some things I should ask when I go to the store to actually buy it?

A:
Great question! The first thing you should do is ask the sales person to do a quick test print for you so that you can see exactly how your printer will act and also how it will sound. You don't want it to be so noisy that every time you print something, you can't even hear yourself think!

Once that's covered, here are some more questions you should keep in mind to ask:

propecia stories

1.) How does the printer handle different types of paper? Check and see if the printer can handle things like envelopes, cards or other types of paper you might use. Also, ask how much paper the printer is able to hold at one time. You don't want to be constantly refilling the paper and you don't want to run into any paper jams.

2.) What type of ink cartridge does the printer take? You'll want to ask about black and color ink cartridges. Check on the cost of them (you don't want to be forking out tons of money for ink later on), how easy is the installation for refills, etc. Ink is what makes your projects turn out at all, so you want your new printer to be top notch in that area. Also, even if you're buying a printer on the cheaper side, it may cost more to refill the ink down the road, so always double check on that.

3.) How easy is it to install the printer on my computer? Always ask the sales person who is helping you how the installation process is. Some printers can be more difficult than others and you can save yourself some hassle by asking. Most printers just come with a CD kit and you just have to walk through the process with a wizard, but make sure that's all you're getting yourself into.

4.) How durable is the printer? Depending on what you're going to be printing with your new printer, you'll want to find out how much it can handle. If you're only going to be printing items every so often, a standard printer will be fine, but if you're going to be printing in high volume, you may need something a little more advanced.

5.) Does the printer handle postscript language? If you're going to be printing a lot of heavy graphics and so forth, make sure your printer supports the language.

6.) What type of warranty does the printer come with? Always check on that to keep yourself covered.

7.) And finally, the most important question of all: how much does it cost?

If you keep these sample questions in mind, you should be able to find the printer that will fulfill all your needs and you will be happy with the turn out. Happy shopping!

Q:
I got an iPod for my birthday from my kids and I finally have all my music loaded on it and all of that good stuff. Now, do you have any tips I can use for keeping my playlists organized? I would like to create different lists for different activities I do, but I don't want them to get all messy. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

A:
First of all, welcome to the wonderful world of iPods! I'm sure you're enjoying it as much as everyone else who has one does. This is a very good question, because in a day and age when music players are so popular, it's typical to have a huge collection of music on just one device and it's too easy to let it "go crazy" and get all jumbled together. This tip is good for anyone who has any type of music player. It doesn't have to be an iPod. If you have an MP3 player or if you just have a lot of music stored on your computer, you can use these organizational tips as well.

Below are six tips you can use to keep your playlists organized and neat. The tips will also help you in understanding what you need to do to follow up your proper playlists. If you follow these tricks, you will have the best music collection in town! Plus, you will be able to find particular songs much faster and sometimes, you just can't beat that. Okay, here we go!

1.) Create Subfolders – One of the most important things to do when making playlists is to create subfolders that will stay on your hard drive. What do I mean by subfolders? Well, you should put all of your music into different categories. You can either separate it by genre or whichever way you'd like to do it. Create a new folder for each type. For instance, one folder for country, one for pop, one for classical and so on. Don't just keep all of your music in the main music folder (My Music) on your C: drive. Subfolders are definitely the better way to go.

2.) Check Your ID3 Tags – First of all, ID3 tags are used to store the important information about your music files, such as the song title, the artist name, the album name, etc. It's also the information that shows up on the screen of your iPod or MP3 player. (Read here for more information on ID3 tags). Sometimes when you put music onto your player, it comes through all wrong. So, make sure you take the time to edit your ID3 tags correctly. Now, you may need a software program to help you do this and one good example is called TagScanner, among others.

3.) Have Proper Music Management Software – It's pertinent that you have the best music management software for yourself and for your music player. There are several you can choose from. If you have an iPod, you probably use iTunes, but some other options are Windows Media Player, MediaMonkey and MusicMatch Jukebox. Each program brings its own features, so you'll just have to decide what all you want and then go get it!

4.) Keep It Legal – If you're using an illegal music download program, you may get some files that come through in an odd way. They may have a weird file name and the songs may also sound a little different than the original version. You don't want that, do you? Yes, you may have to pay for a good online music service, but it's well worth it in the end. Good examples are again, iTunes and there's always Napster.

5.) Create Proper Playlists – As was stated in the question, it's fun to make different playlists for the different activities you're going to be doing. This is also a perfect way to keep your music organized. If you combine certain songs together, you'll come up with some pretty jammin' playlists, along with keeping them neat and tidy. Another thing you can do is just create playlists from the subfolders you created in step one. Keeping all of your music in separate categories is the perfect way to propecia shampoo stay organized when it comes to your tunes.

6.) Your Hard Drive Size – Depending on how much music you download onto your computer, it's important to have a hard drive that will be able to handle it all. Running out of room will certainly mess up your organized music files. Yes, you may have more than one hard drive on your computer, but it's not ideal to store some of your files on one hard drive and the rest on the other. It's important to have all of your music files together in one spot, so just make sure you have enough room. If you think you're going to run out soon, delete some songs you don't listen to very often or just stop downloading!

There you go. Hopefully these tips will help keep your music collection in line and in order. Yes, if you follow all of these steps, it will take you quite a bit of time to complete your organized music collection, but trust me, it will be worth it in the end. Now, get going, you music lovers!