How is the 20D better than earlier models?
The most important features to me are the faster autofocus performance and the lower noise levels for high-ISO settings. These are both significant improvements for one of my main subjects, dance performances under moderate to dim stage lighting. The fast "start-up" time is good for candid shooting. This is actually "wake up" time, since the camera is never actually off despite the power switch, unless you actually remove the batteries.) The 5 fps shooting and better write speed to CF memory is useful but I was seldom limited by this before. Improved battery life is nice, but again the previous models were adequate. The new resolution of 8 Mpixels, moving up from the 6 Mpixel 10D and D60 is a very slight improvement and is not very significant in my opinion. The 20D shutter is noticibly louder than either 10D or D60, and this may be significant in some cases, but most 20D users have not found it to be a problem.

How big are 20D files?
Since it is an 8 megapixel camera, the 20D produces large files. Exact file size depends on the image content, but I find JPEG large/fine files range from 3-6 MB and RAW from 8-13 MB. Images with finely focused detail (eg. foliage or other texture) across the entire frame, or noise from higher ISO settings will be at the large end of the file size range. A RAW file converted to an uncompressed 16-bit TIFF is 48 MB, and 8-bit TIFF is 24 MB regardless of image content. You may find yourself needing larger compact flash cards when using this camera.

How can I get my pictures off the camera?
One way is to use an external card reader (a USB2 type is recommended since it is so much faster than USB1). You remove the compact flash card from the camera and put it in the reader, whereupon it shows up as just another hard drive which you can read pictures from. You can also connect the 20D directly to a PC through its USB2 port. When you connect the camera under Windows XP, you get a dialogue box offering you several options to handle the camera. "MS Scanner and Camera Wizard" works for JPEGs, but will not recognize RAW files (.CR2 extension). The camera memory card shows up under "Scanners and Cameras" in the Windows XP file browser, but with JPEG files only. From within Photoshop, you can use "Import/WIA Support..." and select the 20D, as long as it is attached via USB, but again you can only import JPEG format images this way.

In the EOS Viewer Utility (EVU) you can see the camera's disk drive in the file tree in the left window. You can drag the entire folder of pictures (both raw and jpeg) down into a folder on one of your computer's hard drives. The files transfer at about 2 MB/sec which is not as fast as a stand-alone USB2 card reader can work.

Canon "EOS Viewer Utility" and "Digital Photo Professional" (included on CDs that come with the camera) have a capture mode allowing you to trigger the 20D shutter from the program and import the image directly to the computer, without even saving it on the internal CF card.

How do I store my name in the camera memory?
In the EOS Viewer Utility select "Option/Camera Settings" while the 20D is connected via USB. You can type in your name (or any other text string) into the "Owner's Name" field, as well as set the camera's clock. Click OK and this information is stored in the camera and written on each image you take in the EXIF data.

What is EXIF?
The 20D stores EXchangeable Image File data in JPEG and raw CR2 files. This inclues time, date, shutter speed, aperture, camera user's name (if set), custom function settings, and the camera body serial number. Not all image programs read EXIF data and some software (especially older versions) does not preserve this data if you load and then re-save the image in a separate file.

Is "OFF" different from "Sleep" ?
Not very much. If you don't press any buttons, the camera goes into sleep mode. You can set this "auto power off" in a menu to be after 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30 minutes or never. As soon as you touch the shutter button, it will be awake again. When you turn the camera off with the power switch, the shutter will not turn it on, but it is still really in sleep mode. That's how it manages to turn on and take a picture in under 0.2 seconds. If you insert a CF card while the camera is "off" you'll see it turn on briefly to scan the card. Whether it is in "off" or sleep mode, the camera consumes about 40 microamps of current from the battery. Should you worry about this? The Canon BP511A is rated at 1390 mA-hours, meaning a fully-charged battery would in theory be run down in sleep mode after 34750 hours (4 years). In practice, you should recharge your batteries more often than that anyway, even if they are unused.

How loud is the shutter release?
The 20D shutter/mirror slap sound is louder and higher-pitched than the earlier 10D or D60 shutters. However it is very similar or slightly quieter than the EOS Elan II (film) camera, and similar to or quieter than the 1D-Mark2 shutter in normal (high-speed) mode. For those shooting weddings, if you can tolerate the noise from a medium-format camera, you should be fine since the 20D is quieter than that.

How good is the battery?
The Canon BP-511A battery is a rechargable lithium ion type, claimed good for 1000 shots without flash. This type of battery is generally more trouble-free than NiCd or other rechargable batteries, but there are a few things you should remember. The battery works best at moderate temperatures, between 10 and 30 C (50 to 86 F). If you store a battery for a period of time, it is best to use it up first. Don't store it fully charged, and don't store it in a hot place. If you do it develops a high-resistance "passivation" layer internally which will reduce the amount of charge you can draw out of it. Lithium battery passivation can actually be reduced through charge-discharge cycles (eg. frequent, normal use) but the improvement is small and gradual, so it is best to avoid this condition in the first place.

There are many less expensive third-party replacement batteries available. Canon has pointed out that if you use an after-market replacement (not Canon brand BP-511 or 511A) it is your responsibility to make sure the battery includes the safety features required for use of lithium-ion chemistries. Here is the note from Canon-Europe. I recommend that you look for the CE mark on replacement batteries, which indicates that a product has met the minimum safety requirements for sale in Europe.

Battery lifetime: according to Battery University, lithium rechargables have a life of 300-500 discharge cycles, and they are only expected to last for 2-3 years, regardless of whether they are used at all.

The optional BG-E2 battery grip can take two BP-511 type batteries or 6 AA cells. If the AAs are not absolutely fresh the camera may not function, and runtime with AAs in any case is lower than with the BP511 batteries. Since NiCd or NiMH rechargable cells are lower in voltage than alkaline types, they may not work at all, or have a very short life if they do.

Can you use AA cells with the BG-E2 grip?
The optional BG-E2 battery grip can take one or two BP-511 type batteries or 6 AA cells. If the AAs are not absolutely fresh the camera may not function, and runtime with AAs in any case is lower: Canon specifies only 80 shots with AAs, instead of 1500-2000 with the BP-511A. The instructions mention NiMH rechargable cells but does not mention the total number of shots you can expect. NiMH cells are lower in voltage than alkaline types (1.2V/cell instead of 1.5V) and they may not work at all, or have a very short life if they do. In my tests with a set of six brand-new fully-charged 2000 mAh Lenmar NiMH AA cells I got only 15 shots before the "battery empty" symbol appeared and the camera ceased to function.

How can I get good close-up shots?
You can use the Canon 250D and/or 500D close-up lenses to permit your normal non-macro lens to focus closer and get greater magnification. This does not get you as close as a true "macro" lens, like the Canon 50mm f/2.5, 100mm f/2.8 or 180mm f/3.5 macro lenses. Sigma and Tamron also make macro lenses which are optically very good if mechanically less impressive, at a lower price than the Canon equivalent.

How can I reduce noise in high ISO shots?
The 20D has lower noise at high ISO than earlier models, but there is still some noise present. There are a number of useful noise-reduction programs available: I have used Noise Ninja for some time, it was the first program of its kind. The later Neat Image may provide even better results. Noiseware is the new kid on the block and my initial testing suggests it may be the best yet. Noise Ninja and Neat Image require a noise profile, which you can make from your own images, or download NoiseNinja 20D profile or NeatImage 20D profile made from a test target. Noiseware does not use pre-built profiles but auto-generates them, although capability to use pre-existing profiles is being added.

Using any noise reduction program, you will notice artifacts remaining if you try to remove too much noise, especially if you combine noise reduction and sharpening. I prefer very conservative settings (eg. remove only half of all noise) which leaves the image with a more natural look, and reduces the chance of banding or posterization in the out-of-focus areas.

What can go wrong? Camera Lockup, CF card problems

The 20D camera as originally sold had occasional lock-up problems (became unresponseive to user input) often right after changes lenses and/or flash cards. Removing the battery and re-inserting it restored the camera. Canon's 20D firmware update 1.0.5 fixed the lens-communication and CF-card communication problems in most cases, though some people still report lockups. Firmware 1.1.0 added a fix for horizontal banding at high ISO settings when using the built-in flash. There is a link for firmware downloads below under "Canon Links".